‘Eating for People, Pleasure & Planet’ cookbook: From baked labneh to veg ceviche

If you are growing pumpkins yourself, you can harvest the leaves sparingly to use in place of other leafy greens, and the flowers can be stuffedjust like courgette flowers or used to finish a dish. For the gnocchi 500g potatoes (Desiree, King Edward or a similar floury variety) 120g rye or other flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda Glug of extra virgin or light olive oil, for frying 500g potatoes (Desiree, King Edward or a similar floury variety) 120g rye or other flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda Glug of extra virgin or light olive oil, for frying For the squash sauce 380g squash One-quarter of an unwaxed lemon, zest and juice 2 glugs of extra virgin olive oil 50g leek, finely diced 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped 380g squash One-quarter of an unwaxed lemon, zest and juice 2 glugs of extra virgin olive oil 50g leek, finely diced 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped For the topping Glug of extra virgin olive oil, for frying 50g green leek tops, washed and sliced into thin strips 4 walnut halves Glug of extra virgin olive oil, for frying 50g green leek tops, washed and sliced into thin strips 4 walnut halves To make the gnocchi, steam the whole potatoes for 25 minutes or until soft. Dust your work surface lightly with flour, and then roll out each ball to form a long sausage, about 1cm thick. Leave the skin on and peel 12 long pieces of squash into a bowl and dress with a dash of lemon juice. Blend the squash mixture to a smooth puree with a good glug of extra virgin oliveoil and the remaining lemon juice and zest. 1 garlic clove, finely chopped One-quarter of an unwaxed lemon, zest and juice 8 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 3 tsp urfa chilli flakes, or other extra virgin olive oil, to taste 2–3 peaches or other stone fruit, cut into quarters, stones composted 3 sprigs of fennel fronds or celery leaves 2 tbsp maple syrup, or other sweetener, plus extra to serve 3 sprigs of fennel fronds orcelery leaves Edible flowers, optional 600g labneh (see below) 1 garlic clove, finely chopped One-quarter of an unwaxed lemon, zest and juice 8 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 3 tsp urfa chilli flakes, or other extra virgin olive oil, to taste 2–3 peaches or other stone fruit, cut into quarters, stones composted 3 sprigs of fennel fronds or celery leaves 2 tbsp maple syrup, or other sweetener, plus extra to serve 3 sprigs of fennel fronds or celery leaves Edible flowers, optional 600g labneh (see below) Yogurt and labneh Makes 400–500ml 300g any nuts or seeds, soaked for 12 hours, drained, liquid kept 60g active plant-yogurt (either shop-bought, or kept back from a previous batch) 1 tsp sea salt (for savoury labneh) 1 tbsp unrefined sugar or other sweetener (for sweet labneh) 300g any nuts or seeds, soaked for 12 hours, drained, liquid kept 60g active plant-yogurt (either shop-bought, or kept back from a previous batch) 1 tsp sea salt (for savoury labneh) 1 tbsp unrefined sugar or other sweetener (for sweet labneh) Tip the soaked nuts or seeds into a blender and blitz to a smooth consistency with some of the soaking liquid – the exact quantity will depend on how thick or thin you want your yogurt to be. For labneh, stir the salt or sugar/sweetener into the yogurt, then pour into a sieve lined with muslin or a clean tea towel over a bowl. In a large bowl, mix together the labneh, garlic, lemon zest and juice, half of the thyme leaves, one teaspoon of the chilli flakes and a little extra virgin olive oil. Arrange the peach quarters on top, sprinkle with the remaining chilli flakes and drizzle with the maple syrup or other sweetener.Bake for 35 minutes or until coloured. To serve, sprinkle with the remaining thyme leaves and a scattering of fennel fronds or celery tops and edible flowers, if using. Serves 4 as a side dish, light lunch or starter Ceviche is a Peruvian salad made of raw fish or vegetables, dressed with a zesty and piquant liquid called “tiger’s milk”. It is usually made with lime juice and a chilli called aji amarillo, which you can buy in specialist shops or online. With the purple potatoes, yellow tomatoes and green coriander, this dish is vibrant and rainbow coloured. The white oyster mushrooms act like sponges, absorbing the punchy tiger’s milk to create a refreshing salad that is perfect on a hot summer’s day. Oyster mushrooms are part of an urban farming revolution that has been taking place over the last couple of decades, transforming city spaces into flourishing edible gardens. 50g purple potatoes, diced into 1cm cubes 4 tbsp puffed grain (eg amaranth, quinoa, rice) 60g oyster mushrooms, thinly sliced 100g cherry tomatoes (yellow if available), quartered Dried aji amarillo or fresh chilli, finely diced, to taste 1 unwaxed lime or half an unwaxed lemon, zest and juice 3 fresh coriander sprigs, leaves picked, stalks finely chopped 50g purple potatoes, diced into 1cm cubes 4 tbsp puffed grain (eg amaranth, quinoa, rice) 60g oyster mushrooms, thinly sliced 100g cherry tomatoes (yellow if available), quartered Dried aji amarillo or fresh chilli, finely diced, to taste 1 unwaxed lime or half an unwaxed lemon, zest and juice 3 fresh coriander sprigs, leaves picked, stalks finely chopped Blanch the potato cubes in a pan of boiling water for 10 minutes, then drain and set aside to cool. To finish, mix everything and season with salt to taste, saving a few of the puffed grains and coriander leaves to finish the dish. ‘Eating for People, Pleasure & Planet‘ by Tom Hunt is published by Kyle Books, £26, octopusbooks.co.uk; photography: Jenny Zarins

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