The Grill at the Dorchester reopens for a new era

When we visited on a chilly November evening, after one of those long days in the office when the weekend seems unreachable, it was truly a joy to relax at the bar in the cosy, wood-panelled environment, a plate of nibbles in front of me and a cocktail menu to browse. A baby artichoke salad came liberally sprinkled with truffle, while glazed veal sweetbread was heightened by an accompaniment of nutty, earthy celeriac.Sustainability is a focus, too: a starter of Cumbrian beef tartare with oxtail jelly was served with ‘yesterday’s bread’ – thin, crispy crostini that paired perfectly with the rich,meatyflavours. Mains were generously proportioned but elegantly presented takes on British classics, from the Herdwick lamb rack (given a Gallic twist with a side of pommes boulangère) to a majestic- looking beef Wellington designed to be shared between two. Again, the menu centres on oldfavourites such as banoffee pie – here served in a form of an individual tart with crumbly pastry, layers of fruit, dulce de leche and roasted banana ice-cream, and flaked chocolategratedon at the table like parmesan.